My dad is the kind of dad who will notice we aren’t doing something to his standards and then just take over. (Insert growly voice.) “The recipe says mince, not finely chop, but mince. This isn’t minced.”
I’m happy to report that my father is now in charge of mincing around here. (Was this all part of cunning plan on my side? I’ll never tell.)
What we were making that precipitated the great mincing event this week was one of our absolutely favorite sauces for pasta or polenta, a Genoese mushroom sugo or mushroom sauce.
The recipe comes from Darrell Corti of the Sacramento gourmet grocery Corti Bros. The recipe is Darrell’s grandmother’s and appeared in Saveur in 2001.
This recipe is a testament to the adage that good things take time. Although the ingredients couldn’t be more simple, the slow cooking at various stages deeply enhances the flavors.
First “minced” onions are slowly cooked in olive oil until they begin to caramelize and turn a rich golden color. Then carrots are added, cooked for a while, then celery, and finally garlic and herbs.
After the wine, tomato sauce, mushroom soaking water and mushrooms are added, the sauce still cooks for another hour and a half.
The sauce is so good I just want to eat it straight with a spoon! (And I will if it’s anywhere in reaching distance). It shines over polenta, ravioli, or a short pasta like penne or fusilli.
Mushroom Sugo Recipe
The onions cook for a long time, during which you can prep the rest of the vegetables if you want to save some time. If you are using dry herbs, use half as much. The mincing is important, as the sauce is not strained or puréed.
Ingredients
- 1 ounce dried porcini mushrooms
- 4 Tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
- 2 medium yellow onions, peeled and minced (yielding about 2 cups minced onion)
- 2 carrots, peeled and minced (yielding about 1 1/2 cups minced carrots)
- 3 celery ribs, minced (yielding about 1 1/2 cups minced celery)
- 6-8 cloves garlic, peeled and minced
- 1 bunch parsely, minced (yielding 1/3 cup loosely packed)
- 1/2 teaspoon minced fresh rosemary
- 1/4 teaspoon fresh thyme
- 1/4 teaspoon fresh marjoram (we didn't have marjoram growing so we used fresh oregano instead, which has a similar flavor)
- 1/2 cup dry red wine
- 1 15-ounce can of tomato sauce
- 1 beef bouillon cube (use vegetable bouillon cube for vegetarian option)
- 1 bay leaf
- Freshly ground black pepper
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